La Palma

Day 6: April 19

Volcano Route

5/19/2026

La Palma

Itinerary

Morning

Morning

Today we’re going to walk along the Ruta de los Volcanes.

Ruta de los Volcanes is one of the most famous hiking routes on La Palma.
It runs along a series of volcanoes and craters. The full route is almost 20 km long; we only walked a small part of it — about 8 km.

Getting to the start of the route was quite an adventure. The road is very scenic, but it’s unpaved and in places has huge potholes.

Several times I thought that was it — we’d arrived, and from there we’d have to continue on foot — but Serzhyk somehow managed to steer us through each time.

The road to the parking lot where we begin the Ruta de los Volcanes route.

The road to the parking lot where we begin the Ruta de los Volcanes route.

And this is already a hiking trail. Here there are pine trees again and black volcanic soil. On the horizon, the cone of Martin Volcano is visible.

And this is already a hiking trail. Here there are pine trees again and black volcanic soil. On the horizon, the cone of Martin Volcano is visible.

The higher we climb up the mountain, the fewer and more scattered the trees become.

The higher we climb up the mountain, the fewer and more scattered the trees become.

Mount Martin is very close now

Mount Martin is very close now

Serzhyk went further up the mountain, to the crater of Mount Martin. But I was tired and decided to head down to the parking lot on my own. Serzhyk gave me an apple for the road, and I set off.

Suddenly, a raven landed near me, almost silently. I kept walking.

The raven followed me and again landed a meter away from me.
At first, I thought maybe its nest was somewhere nearby and it was guarding it.

Later I realized that it had been attracted by my bright red apple. I felt uneasy.

That raven was much bigger than the ones that live in cities, or at least that’s how it seemed to me.

I had a stick, and I thought I could defend myself.

I was curious whether the bird would eat the apple and whether my theory was right, that it was following me because of it.

I took a bite and threw it to him — he happily ate it.

And then, out of nowhere, a flock of ravens appeared high in the sky.

Now one bird was following me from the ground, and the flock was circling above me high in the sky.

They were cawing loudly, and I thought that with so many birds I definitely wouldn’t be able to handle them.

This probably sounds very strange — how can a grown person be afraid of a bird.

But when you’re walking alone through the forest and a large black raven persistently flies after you, while dozens more circle overhead… It became frightening.

I quickened my pace. The birds high in the sky kept circling. The raven kept flying after me.

I decided I should finish the apple, maybe that would help. Though I didn’t really want to.

When the apple was eaten, the raven flew away.

The flock in the sky circled for a while longer, but then they too flew off somewhere about their business.

“My” raven. It sits on a post and watches me off with its gaze. This is where we parted ways.

“My” raven. It sits on a post and watches me off with its gaze. This is where we parted ways.

Meanwhile, Serzhyk ascended to the caldera of Mount Martin Volcano

Meanwhile, Serzhyk ascended to the caldera of Mount Martin Volcano

The soil here is bright red. This color is caused by the iron content in the volcanic rocks.

The soil here is bright red. This color is caused by the iron content in the volcanic rocks.