Day 6: October 6

However, in the new hotel the windows face the street, and because of that the lighting is completely different (in yesterday’s hotel there were many windows, but they all faced the inner courtyard, so it was a little gloomy without extra light even during the day). The new hotel has a very beautiful living room, though it is shared by two rooms. But we were lucky — no one ever checked into the other room, so you could say the living room was entirely ours.

We’re heading to Lezghira to see the arches. We leave the car in the paid parking lot. There are lots of little restaurants here. We go down to the beach. There are quite a lot of people too. It’s hot and everything is veiled in haze. So the photos turned out rather poor. They don’t convey the beauty or atmosphere of the place at all. It really is very beautiful there!

The largest and most famous arch collapsed 2 years ago. Now in its place is a pile of bright red boulders.

The map indicates that there are more arches a little farther on. Exhausted from walking in the heat, we return to the car, turn on the air conditioning, and in the refreshing coolness drive 4 kilometers toward Sidi Ifni. It’s completely wild here. Along a dirt road among cacti, we make our way to the cliff edge.

I like it here much more than in Lezgir. We are completely alone, and the view of the arch is simply breathtaking. The sun came out, so this time the photos turned out a little better.

We forgot our swimsuits, and I really want to go for a swim. I suggest that Volchy go down to the bay and swim in his underwear. We follow the path down to the ocean. There is no one here, only fishermen are sitting far away on the arch’s outcrop.

The ocean is wonderful, especially in this heat. We swim with great pleasure. The whole bay is ours! An amazing feeling. Volchiy brings a mountain of shells. He pried some of them out of the rock, and they are in bright red earth. We want to take them all, but we choose only the three most beautiful ones.

After drying off, we are ready to head back home. At home we eat the mango we bought yesterday at the supermarket. It turns out to be incredibly delicious! Probably the sweetest mango in my life. Even in Asia they were not this tasty. We regret buying only one. Maybe we’ll come across another one someday.

In the evening we go out for a walk around the town. Unexpectedly, we come to the fish market. Behind the market, tables are set up right on the street, and in the improvised cafés they grill fish over charcoal. The system here is a little different from Sri Lanka. First, we bought the fish at the market. We chose for a long time and decided to go with tuna, as we had long wanted to try grilled tuna. The vendor cleans the fish. We bring it to the café, where it is grilled over charcoal.

Fried tuna is very tasty, and there was a lot of it too. The fish was served with traditional flatbread and olives. A splendid dinner!

While we were eating, cats gathered around us and meowed plaintively, begging for fish.