First trip to India, January 2015

Day 15, January 23

Bhavnagar-Palitana

First trip to India, January 2015

Itinerary

If I had to ask myself what I liked least about India, it would definitely be the noise. It’s a very noisy country. During the day, the constant honking of cars gives you a splitting headache. And in hotels, you often wake up because someone outside your window decided to sing Indian songs at 6 in the morning.

But this hotel turned out to be the noisiest of the whole trip. It seemed like all the guests jumped up at 4 a.m. and made such a racket that it was simply impossible to sleep. They were shouting and making a commotion for about an hour and a half; I even suggested to Volchy that we get up earlier and head to Palitana. But he said it would be better to wait for sunrise — and that was the right call — wandering around the city in the dark wasn’t very appealing. As a result, around 6 I drifted into a half-sleep, and at 7 the alarm went off… Of course, we didn’t get enough sleep, but in India, as I’ve already written, getting enough sleep is a difficult task.

The bus was scheduled to leave in half an hour — that’s what the Indian man at the ticket window at the bus station told us. For a long time, we couldn’t figure out which platform we needed; they were marked with Indian numerals. A guy who spoke English more or less told us where to wait for the bus and said that he was also going to Palitana.

Our bus arrived 15 minutes late, and immediately a crowd of Indians rushed to the door from nowhere. People were throwing bags through the open windows, taking seats. By the time Volchy jumped on board, all the seats were supposedly taken by someone. But later, once everyone had settled in, we did indeed get two seats next to each other.

The road from Bhavnagar to Palitana is terribly battered. We sat at the back of the bus and kept bouncing over the bumps. After a while, the conductor came by and we bought tickets — cheap, for 66 rupees. The trip took about an hour and a half.

At the bus station, we started thinking about what to do next. We were choosing between staying here overnight or going to Ahmedabad in the evening. Volchy said, let’s go up the mountain with our backpacks — and off we went. More precisely, we found an auto-rickshaw and for 50 rupees rode to the start of the steps up the mountain. Walking with backpacks was manageable, although of course it would have been much better without them.

Day 15, January 23

The climb here is much easier compared to Girnar. Halfway up, we sat down to rest and drink some water. We walked at an unhurried pace, enjoying the rare silence in India and the beautiful views. Everything here was more civilized than on Girnar — there were no monkeys sitting along the path, and no vendors selling water and cookies. A woman was sweeping the steps, which here were at least twice as wide. And there was practically no litter on the roadside — sterile cleanliness for India. Still, this place lacked some elusive charm inherent in Girnar.

Day 15, January 23

About two hours later we made it to the top of the hill. There really are a great many Jain temples here. The temples are gathered into complexes. First we went into one of the complexes, where there were a lot of pilgrims. It smelled of roses — there were many of them here — the pilgrims used them for their rituals. People were arranging some kind of patterns out of rice. Musicians were also playing in the square in front of the temple. Everyone was friendly and welcoming, even though we clearly stood out from the crowd, dressed as required. After sitting and watching people, we headed to the other complexes higher up. We visited practically all of them, although I’m sure we didn’t see everything… We were hungry and already feeling tired — carrying the backpack had become very tiring. After a long search, we finally found a great place to have a snack, with a view of the lake and the lower temple complex. We ate a little of the festive sweets left over from yesterday.

And then we set off on the way back. My legs hurt a lot; the recent climb up Girnar was taking its toll.

We got back to the city by tuk-tuk.

Day 15, January 23

We checked into a hotel opposite the bus station. The room was fairly cheap (500 rupees), though rather shabby. Very old furniture, no hot water, dirty walls. On the plus side, there were large windows and a spacious room. In the sunlight it looked quite decent, and we decided to stay, especially since we were already running out of energy and really wanted to rest.

We ate at a little eatery opposite the hotel, having unappetizing flatbreads, but there were no other options nearby. We also bought a pineapple.