First trip to India, January 2015

Day 20, January 28

Udaipur-Chittorgarh

First trip to India, January 2015

Itinerary

In the morning we leave Udaipur. We check out of the hotel we had already grown fond of, with its beautiful view of the lake. We decided to get to the bus station by tuk-tuk; the tuk-tuk driver turned out to be quite amazing — first, he took us for 40 rupees without bargaining. Second, he didn’t honk at anyone along the way at all, which here is simply incredible.
Buses to Chittorgarh leave every half hour, and we were lucky to arrive just in time for departure. We bought tickets and jumped on the bus. The ride took 2.5 hours.
The bus dropped us off not far from the hotel and the train station. I didn’t like the town right away. It felt somehow too crowded, with lots of barefoot beggar children and slums.
The hotel turned out to be rather gloomy too. They are renovating it now, and the rooms are old and a bit scary. We looked at three rooms and chose a larger one with a balcony. Then it turned out that there was no Wi-Fi there, so we had to move to another room, smaller and without a balcony — but with internet.

The mood was somehow strange; Volchiy even said I was losing my traveler title. I was frightened by the prospect of spending even a couple of days in Chittorgarh. We couldn’t leave earlier, the hotel was already paid for. After the bright, colorful touristy Udaipur, Chittorgarh seemed like a Godforsaken place where no tourist had ever set foot.
Besides, the fort was 6 km from the city, and in India it’s very difficult to cover that distance on foot. So we couldn’t even go for a walk in the fort — we decided to go there by tuk-tuk tomorrow morning and spend the whole day there.

It was only 2 p.m. Sitting in the hotel was cold and hungry, so we decided to go out for a walk and scout out the situation in the city. It wasn’t entirely clear where to go — we headed toward the train station. Near the train station there was some bustle — fruit is sold there, pastries are fried, and tea is brewed. Along the way there are quite a few hotels, seemingly nicer than ours. We went into two of them to ask about the price — the price was twice as high as what we were paying. After the train station, people and civilization gradually come to an end — only stray dogs remain, so we decided not to tempt fate and not go any farther. We returned to the train station, bought pastries that the vendor had literally just fried. We bought bananas, cookies for later, and went back to the room to eat.

Thanks to the internet, the time until evening flew by quickly.

Day 20, January 28

At around 8 p.m. we went to have dinner at the little restaurant we had discovered during the day — opposite the railway station. The restaurant turned out to be very pleasant; after we arrived, it filled up with a crowd of people — all Indians, but very cultured and nice people.
We ordered 4 kinds of different flatbreads and the palak paneer we had already grown fond of — spinach with cheese.
Roti (Roti) is a small round flatbread made from unleavened wholemeal flour dough. It is fried on a skillet. We usually always order them, and here they turned out to be very tasty.
Paratha (Paratha) is a larger flatbread, but like roti it is also made from unleavened dough and fried on a heated skillet.
Kulcha (kulcha) is a flatbread made from yeast dough with premium wheat flour, baked in a tandoor oven.
Naan (Naan) is also a flatbread made from yeast dough, baked in a tandoor. We used to eat naan before; it is very similar to lavash. Unlike roti, which are very thin, like a pancake, naan is a dense, thick flatbread.
In this restaurant, though, they all differed little from one another, and for some reason the roti was the tastiest.
After stuffing ourselves with flatbreads and spinach gravy, we went home.

Day 20, January 28

We saw a wedding procession. Women were carrying lanterns, behind them an electric generator was being driven, and in the center of the procession the newlyweds were apparently seated on a throne.
By evening, the cold in the room had intensified. We asked about a heater, the rental price of which was 400 rupees (130 UAH), and we really didn’t like it…
Volchiy came up with making hot-water bottles and sleeping with them. We emptied two 2-liter bottles of water and poured hot water from the boiler into them. Volchiy wrapped the bottles well in towels — and voila, warm hot-water bottles were ready. It was very pleasant to sleep with them. Surprisingly, they kept the warmth until morning.