Asia 2016

Day 46, March 4

Mandalay-Thazi

Asia 2016

Itinerary

Our train was departing at two in the afternoon, so we checked out of the hotel at a leisurely pace around 12 and walked to the station - it’s not far away.

It may seem that traveling is always very fun and wonderful. But in fact, that’s not quite true. At least half the time I feel some kind of anxiety or fear. Worries about missing something, not making it on time, someone cheating us, etc. I am fully aware that these worries are completely unnecessary. I understand that in any case it’s impossible to control everything, that there are things beyond my control. But it is still very hard to control fear.

More and more often I try to let go of the situation, not get nervous, not invent problems in advance, and act according to the circumstances. I’m already getting better at this, although it is very difficult for me. But still, it’s worth admitting that I’m nervous and worried much less now. Perhaps Asia taught me this - there is much more unpredictability here. And like it or not, you have to somehow make peace with it, otherwise you’ll go crazy.

Very often there is a longing for home and for the people you love… You begin to value more what you have there, in Kyiv - because now you look at all of it from the outside, far away from everything that turned out to be so dear…

But sometimes there are such moments. They come somehow completely unexpectedly, out of the blue - for example, when you step out of the hotel onto the street in Mandalay. The air is so hot, dusty. Very bright. But then all of a sudden you understand with your whole being - how amazing it is that I am here. In this faraway country, among these strangers but smiling people, among the palm trees along the road, among these cafés with low plastic chairs, among these smells of food and cheap gasoline. All your previous journeys, like an express train, rush through your head and you suddenly understand very clearly - your whole life is woven from moments like these. As if travels, layering one upon another, create one continuous fabric - my life, my personal map of the world, where the world is me. And if you take away these wanderings of mine around the world (which probably seem pointless and unnecessary to someone) - probably nothing will remain of me. Just a shell, a bagel with emptiness inside.

But of course, then the vision quickly fades. You walk in the heat. You carry a backpack, even if not that heavy, wait for the train at the station, travel somewhere into the unknown, fatigue sets in - and again the question arises in your head - why?

We got to the station, bought tickets and sat down to wait for the train - it was leaving in two hours. The station building in Mandalay is a little unsettling. We went up to the second floor where there are cafés in the form of tables and some food, and there is even a gaming computer center. Young Myanmar guys were playing computer games on TVs - it felt like I had jumped into a time machine and gone back at least 20 years….

Myanmar people playing games on a computer

Myanmar people playing games on a computer

Time flew by quite quickly. Volchiy was working. I never cease to be amazed by his unique ability to work anywhere. I feel a little lazy. I need the right mood to work; I can’t just sit down and start programming out of nowhere. Instead, I read a book. That’s something to do, too.

When the time came, we went down to platform 1, from which our train was supposed to depart. The train was there. The train conductor said that this wasn’t our train, it had broken down, and so our train would depart from the second track. Such unpredictable trains in Myanmar.

We moved to the second track, where a new, beautiful train was standing. We were traveling in a first-class carriage (and the ticket was still cheap. Standard class cost 20 UAH, first class cost 40 UAH). The journey was supposed to take 3 hours. The spotless toilets were a surprise; there was even a sink and hand soap.

Mandalay–Yangon train carriage, first class :)

Mandalay–Yangon train carriage, first class :)

An hour later, the conductors began bringing food. We had hardly eaten anything since morning, so we gladly bought some food — it turned out to be very tasty rice.

Volchiy is photographing us with rice. Our first photo together on the entire trip.

Volchiy is photographing us with rice. Our first photo together on the entire trip.

And so we arrived in the town of Thazi — a transit stop. From here, tomorrow, we will take another train toward Inle Lake. We had to spend the night here. For the first time during our entire trip, we did not have a hotel booked.

We checked in quickly at a small hotel not far from the railway station. The rooms here were very, very simple. But they cost surprisingly a lot. A room with an en-suite shower cost as much as $25; we stayed in a room with a shower on the floor for $15.

Our room, the bed, and a narrow little passage — that’s all

Our room, the bed, and a narrow little passage — that’s all

After settling in, we went for a walk around Thazi. There’s really nowhere to walk here. Just one main street, and we set off down it with no particular destination in mind. Dusk was falling over the town, so we didn’t get very far. We sat down to have some tea in a very colorful local café with wooden tables and locals who stared at us as if we were aliens.

The girls were shy at the sight of Volchy, giggling and whispering to each other. In moments like these, I always get the feeling that I’m walking with a movie star — Volchy probably seems to Myanmar girls like someone along the lines of Brad Pitt :)

We returned to the hotel, and an hour later realized that apart from rice on the train, we hadn’t eaten anything — so we went to grab a bite at the café right next to our hotel.

Cafe, which also serves as a cinema

Cafe, which also serves as a cinema

It turned out to be completely packed - almost all the tables were occupied, and the Myanmar locals were sitting and watching a movie. We sat down at an empty table and started watching the movie too :) There were two TVs there - on one of them they were showing a very good film, “The Green Mile,” with English subtitles.

Our dinner

Our dinner

We drank tea and ate fried flatbreads - chapati.